I am suggesting Sasquatch uses short blast of Electro Magentic Pulse “Zapping” to render electronic equipment useless just as is used in warfare. As a contribution technique – I am rigging an experiment of protecting my equipment on the next adventure for Electro Magnetic protection. While I always consider my lack of checking all my gear for electronic malfunction, there continues to be too many circumstances where my gear is useless in one area only to begin functioning again a day later or once I leave the area. While this continues to be too-coincidental it is time to up our game and prove that humans are not as dumb as Sasquatch thinks we are.
Quick Tangent – When camping on the Washington Coast - I always camp at Tidelands Campgrounds one of the more remote areas on Copalis Beach. While I hate to give out this location – it is one of the more undervalued and “Desolate” campgrounds on the Pacific Coast. At night, and especially on the weekend this campsite allows easy crossing for Sasquatch from the Olympics over Hwy 109. The Campground is also just south of the Quinault Reservation. There have been many beach sightings along Hwy 109, so the staff actually put up a Sasquatch as the campground mascot – and while not the highest end campground (Maybe one of the lower end) this is where you want to be. Mid-summer nights I highly recommend checking it out, and strolling to the beach through the winding woods at the witching hour. These trails will take you along the canal and across the bridge provided by Beachwood Resort (While there is a boat to pull yourself across via rope at Tidelands – I don’t recommend it unless you have great visibility). The other reason Copalis has so many sightings is that in addition to a high deer population, you have to remember that no-vehicles are allowed on this area of the beach so while Ocean Shores is carrying all the traffic the beaches of the Quinault Reservation and Copalis are blacked out and void of humans at most times of the year. During the week Tidelands Campground is VOID and I mean VOID, of all human traffic. The center of the grounds also provide a large field of view for star seekers, and put you right in the universe fishbowl.
So during my adventures I have had my share of electronic issues - as if a vortex of energy disrupted my gear - and I keep thinking - what if Sasquatch is Zapping me ? Surely there is a way to protect myself from this? and if there is wouldn't the community want to know - well, here is what I am suggesting - buckle up!~
Clarks Third Law
"Any sufficiently advanced technology is indistinguishable from magic"
This statement is commonly known as Clarke's Third Law. Many people have heard this quotation, but few people really think about its implications.
We now live in a world that is so completely immersed in advanced technology that we depend upon it for our very survival. Most of the actions that we depend upon for our everyday activities -- from flipping a switch to make the lights come on to obtaining all of our food supplies at a nearby supermarket -- are things that any individual from a century ago would consider magic. But to the intelligent Sasquatch magic it is not – could a Sasquatch use the earth’s Electro Magnetic field, and curve or channel energy for Zapping electronics?
Perhaps Sasquatch is teaching us a lesson on how dependent we truly are on Electronics – just as they teach us about the care and use of the earth?
But while I like to think Sasquatch as this highly intelligent and spiritual being what if they are only as smart as a scientist and we invoke some of the world’s best known gear against them for documenting field eg. video – enter EMP protection. While I say video the reason I say that is unless you are also willing to do infrasound protection and wear audible protection you won’t have time to raise a camera – so strap on your EMP protected Go-Pro’s and just go with it – have them facing forward and rear – what do we have to lose?
This is a page about some of the things that individuals can do to prepare for an electromagnetic pulse attack from Sasquatch (Again this is a hypothesis and I am suggesting).
To be adequately shielded, it needs to be kept inside of a complete metallic shielded enclosure, commonly known as a faraday cage, and preferably inside nested faraday cages. A faraday cage is an total enclosure made out of a good electrical conductor such as copper or aluminum. (Steel also works well, but it is often more difficult to make a total enclosure with steel.) Large faraday cages can get extremely complicated. For small portable electronics, though, completely covering the electronic equipment in heavy-duty aluminum foil makes a good faraday cage around the equipment. The foil covering needs to be complete, without any gaps. Wrap the device in plastic or put it in an insulated box before wrapping the covered device in foil. (Otherwise, the foil may simply conduct the EMP energy into the device more effectively.) A single layer of foil may not be adequate. In order to enclose the equipment in a nested faraday cage, place the foil-covered device in a plastic bag, such as a freezer bag, and wrap that bag completely in aluminum foil. If you really want to protect the equipment against a large EMP, add another layer of plastic and foil. The layer of plastic needs to be the thickest plastic bags that you can easily find. (They don't need to be terribly thick, but do try to find some heavy-duty bags.)
If you have done an absolutely perfect job with the first layer of aluminum foil, the "nested faraday shield" is not needed. As a practical matter, though, the "nesting" procedure helps greatly in protecting against both inadvertent gaps and possible later accidental punctures through the aluminum foil that may severely compromise the shield.
Just adding many layers of foil directly on top of foil won't do as much good, due to what is called "skin effect." I won't bother to explain skin effect here, but you can look it up if you're curious. Don't worry too much about skin effect, though. I only mention it here because many people have the misconception that when it comes to shielding, the thicker the better -- and this is definitely not true after a certain thickness is reached. Layers of shielding separated by insulation works much better. As a practical matter, though, wrapping with 2 or 3 layers of foil helps to assure that you actually have a good shield around the equipment. Using heavy-duty aluminum foil can prevent the foil from tearing as easily.
Of course, any antennas or power cords need to be either disconnected or contained completely within the faraday cage.
Epiphany - **Garbage cans – ok, so we all know Sasquatch is used to garbage cans so I am not suggesting moving them but get those camera’s out of the forest and put them into the perfect garbage can Fadaray cage – they are already used to.
One question that arises frequently is whether a various kinds of safes or galvanized trash cans make an effective faraday cage. Technically, it may not be correct to call either of these a faraday cage because they are not constructed of the best electrical conductors. A locking-lid galvanized metal trash can, though, can be a very effective electromagnetic shield. Although it can be very effective, it is less than perfect, so the interior of the body of the galvanized metal trash can should be lined with some material to electrically insulate items stored inside the container from the metal exterior. (Cardboard probably works better than any other inexpensive material for this. Liners such as plastic trash bags may be too thin for this because of the momentary high voltages that could be induced on the exterior of an imperfect faraday cage during an actual EMP.) Do not place any insulation at a point where it would interfere with the electrical connection between the metal lid and the metal body of the trash can. It is also important to wrap any very sensitive items placed inside the metal trash can with a layer of aluminum foil (preferably in the "nested faraday cage" manner described above).
It is important to remember that a galvanized trash can, by itself, is usually an imperfect shield. It may be good enough for many purposes (such as for storing items that you use frequently or for less sensitive items), but the extra layer of shielding provided by aluminum foil on equipment that is stored on the inside may be a critical factor in a severe EMP discharge. On a galvanized trash can, the electrical connection between the body of the can and the lid is critical. For this reason, use only a new galvanized trash can for this purpose. Dents and distortions in the roundness of the lid and the upper part of the galvanized can severely deteriorate the high-frequency shielding effectiveness of the can. Also, the lid must be kept very firmly in place for a galvanized trash can to be an effective shield.
The best kind of galvanized trash can to use is one with a handle that also serves to lock the lid in place. These are generally only available in smaller sized trash cans. The locking lid trash cans made by Behrens, and sold by stores such as Home Depot and Lowes, often make excellent electromagnetic shields. The Behrens locking lid trash cans are only available in 6 and 10 gallon sizes (and the 10 gallon size is rather difficult to find). In general, if you read the online reviews and find that the most common complaint is the very tight-fitting lid, then the trash can will probably make an excellent shield.
If you use one of these new galvanized cans with a very round top and lid, as well as a very firmly-secured and tight-fitting lid with plenty of overlap onto the body of the can, then the shielding effectiveness is often excellent. In this case, you may be able to omit any extra shielding, especially for items that you may use frequently. When there is radio frequency leakage in a well-sealed galvanized can, it is usually in the frequencies above 500 MHz. These are, for example, the range of the typical cell phone frequencies, and EMP components at these frequencies are at a very low levels in nuclear weapons that have so far been tested above ground.
There are several things that can be done to better seal the connection between the lid and the body of a metal trash can. The metal EMI finger stock that is made for this purpose would cost about twice as much as the new trash can itself; so this is not the best option, although it is feasible if you want to spend the money. Simpler options are to stuff steel wool or aluminum foil under the edge of the lid (after it has been closed). Also, you can seal the lid to the body using aluminum tape. Be sure to use tape that is actually metallic aluminum. You can buy aluminum tape from electronics suppliers that has a conductive adhesive. Often, the conductive adhesive is not necessary unless you are trying to shield frequencies well into the upper microwave range. A good aluminum-backed tape to use for this purpose is 3M 3340 foil tape, which can be purchased at any building materials store. The 3M 3340 tape is 2.5 inches (63.5 mm) wide, which give it a good overlap for sealing the potential gaps in a metal container.
Don't try to clean up and re-use any kind of used trash can for this purpose. You need a new one with no dents at all in the lid or where the body attaches to the lid. When you buy these in a store, they will often have several, so you can choose one with a tight fitting lid and with no visible dents.
I should point out that if you have a faraday cage made of a perfect conductor that is also perfectly sealed, then you don't need any inner non-conductive lining to insulate it from the items inside. In such a situation, the outer skin of the faraday cage will block all of the outside signal from even getting to the inner surface of the container. Practical situations are never that perfect. (If you have a room-temperature perfect conductor, you can always obtain professionally-built faraday cages using the proceeds of your upcoming Nobel Prize.)
Nested electromagnetic shields are always best for reasons that have to do only with practical everyday reality. In the case of a galvanized trash can, the best shield can be made by putting a smaller trash can inside of a larger one. Use an insulating separator to keep the two trash cans electrically isolated from on another. put your equipment in the inner (smaller) trash can. If there is room, you can store some less-sensitive items outside of the inner can.
Ok so I have probably created a lot more work for you, or sent your mind spinning -- but some things to ponder as we continue on our journey.
Ok so let’s recap what I am suggesting
1) Shield your game trail camera’s and Go Pro helmet cords with Aluminum Foil as well as all battery packs in a fadaray cage.
a. Throw away your camera’s – infrasound prevents you from using them anyway - your frozen. Hook up your array of go-pro's HD in an EM shielded helmet.
2) Redeploy new trash cans and don’t use them for 60 days and let Sasquatch get used to them – then turn them into fadaray cages with shielded camera’s – buying any of this? Well you should be if you think Electro Magnetic charges is what Sasquatch is hitting you with, rendering your equipment useless.
Best of luck and happy researching!~ © 2016
If you or someone you know have an encounter to share - reach us at email@example.com
For more about shielding from someone who has spent his career doing electromagnetic shielding, see Donald R. J. White's book on EMP shielding. The 3rd edition of this book has been freshly edited and completely re-written by Jerry Emanuelson, the creator of this web site. The 3rd edition also contains new material written by Jerry Emanuelson. Upcoming books will have even greater details on specific aspects of shielding for individuals and communities. The first of those more detailed books, EMP Protecting Housing and Solar, was released in August of 2014.